Finally, all the stars have aligned and we can travel again! We have the time, the travel restrictions are not gone but reduced, and we finally have out motorhome on Spanish plates and insured again. We took a couple of short trips in June to blow the cobwebs off and remember what being in our van is like but this time we intended to get our sea legs again and actually go proper touring.
With the pandemic still ever present, and the numbers not heading on the right direction, we thought best to not go too far and stay within the Iberian peninsula. That way, if we travel was suddenly restricted again, we could easily hotfoot it back to our home province within a few days. And in any case, there is so much of Spain & Portugal that we really want to see that staying within a few days drive from home is no great hardship. We left on the 6th July with a plan to spend several weeks in the north of Spain, specifically Galicia, Asturias and Cantabria. Our ultimate destination is the Picos de Europa, a place we missed last time we came through the area because the weather didn’t co-operate with us.
In early July the temperatures in our home province of Malaga were already in the mid 30s. That’s bearable when you live in a sticks and bricks home but not so much fun in a motorhome with no air conditioning. With this in mind, for our first few days we decide to do several hours driving to reposition to some cooler temps. I have been really keen to visit Extremadura but the temps there were even higher so we decided our best plan was to get West first and travel up the coast of Portugal. It turned out to be a great plan.
Our first night in Portugal could not have been better. We chose a Portugal Easy Camp spot, Quinta Breijhina. Portugal Easy Camp is similar to programs like France Passion, Brit Stops or España Discovery, but slightly different in that you actually pay for a Welcome Pack in return for a camping spot and you can book in advance online. When we arrived at the winery we were met at the gate with the welcome pack (four half bottles of their wine) and told we could park among the vines. Perfect. After a bit of a decompress and a rest, we headed over for a lovely tasting of some other of their estate wines which turned out to be just as delicious as we remembered Portuguese wine to be. There’s nothing like drinking their lovingly produced wine at a winery. It reminds you how lucky you are to be able to travel and enjoy life.
After the most peaceful night, with only a few birds and frogs for company, we headed a bit further north just past Lisbon to the beautiful walled town of Obìdos. There’s a great little fully serviced area de autocaravanas on the edge of town with twenty spots of which only one was occupied when we arrived. Clearly Covid has wreaked havoc with tourism in this part of Portugal. The town had a few visitors but I am sure it was more like February rather than a normal July. The walls that surround the town can be walked, and on a glorious sunny day it was a spectacular thing to do.
After Obidos we decided to make a quick stop en route to our next camping spot. We are in that area in central Portugal filled with an abundance of world heritage sites and amazing places. We considered the Monasteries of Batalha and Alcobaça but decided not to hit both to avoid amazing building fatigue. We chose to stop this time at the incredible Batalha Monastery. This is a gothic masterpiece and a truly wonderful building. It’s super easy to visit in a motorhome as there is a huge parking area nearby, presumably in normal years occupied by tour buses. The day we were there it was deserted. Once again the COVID curse has wreaked havoc with the local economy and while for us it made the visit spectacular as we were mostly alone in all the spaces, it is hard not to feel sorry for all the businesses that rely on the tourist Euro.
Because we were not sure what to expect in terms of how busy places would be, and how much competition there would be for motorhome spots, for our first weekend away we booked a campsite further up the coast. Weekends are usually the most competitive time but we need not have worried. There are very few people around. We have come across mostly Portuguese motorhomes, a few Spanish like ourselves and the occasional French one. But that’s it. Nowhere seems remotely full. That bodes well for us finding spots in the next few weeks (until August hits at least) but it is awful to see businesses struggling without their usual customers.
We ended our first week near Vagos, in a little coastal town of Vagueira. It’s a little rundown and battered but we had a fantastic cycle ride along the beach boardwalk. It was exhilarating to be by the ocean again and to enjoy some delicious seafood. So far Portugal has been fantastic and people have been very welcoming. I think they are really grateful for some foreign tourists. The food and wine has been amazing. I have eaten so much octopus I am surprised that I haven’t grown tentacles. Next week we’ll spend a few more days in Northern Portugal before heading back into Spain where I am sure we will continue to eat and drink well in the wonders of Galicia. So far so good for our first week back on the road.
The Scenic Route 
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